As you can see, this is not an exact replica of the real thing, but it’s not bad 🙂
While doing it I had a few ideas about how I could do it better next time e.g. to make the rim a bit wider and more stepped. However, rather than spend another week working on improving my first attempt, I’m just going to give it to you as it is.
Yes I did actually write down the pattern, and here it is…
You will need: some fine* blood red yarn; some fine* light / off-white yarn; a 2mm hook, a yarn needle and some snippy scissors. This pattern is not necessarily going to be easy to follow – because I wrote it and I’ve never written one before! – so you might want to try something else to get you going if this is your first time.
* Sorry, I’ve chucked away the labels and can’t remember what it is. It’s crochet yarn from Hobbycraft, if that helps – rather finer than 4ply knitting wool, but nowhere near fine enough for lacework.
Please note: the stitches are in American. That means e.g. single crochet in the pattern means double crochet in British terminology. I know this is perverse, but I’ve learned patterns primarily from US websites so there you are.
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch (UK: single crochet)
sc = single crochet (UK: double crochet)
dc = double crochet (UK: treble crochet)
dec = decreasing i.e. working one stitch over the next two stitches
[…] N times = work the stitches in square brackets N number of times
Final disclaimer: laying things out in WordPress is actually quite tricky and it keeps going slightly wrong and I have had enough of tinkering with it, so in summary – if the layout for this pattern goes funny and makes it a bit harder to read, don’t blame me, blame someone else, OK? Each round number is in bold, which should help.
1. Using red yarn, ch2, 5 sc in second ch from hook
2. 2 sc in each stitch (10 stitches)
3. [1 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] 5 times (15 stitches)
4. [4 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] 3 times (18 stitches)
5. Changing to light yarn (leaving a good long tail of red), 18 sc all round
6. [8 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] twice (20 stitches)
7. 20 sc all round
8. Repeat round 7.
9. [9 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] twice (22 stitches)
10. 22 sc all round
11. Repeat round 10.
12. Ch 1, 8 dc, 2 dc in next stitch, 10 dc, 2 dc in next stitch, 1 hdc, 1 sc, join to initial ch with ss (24 stitches)
13. Working through the front posts of each stitch in round 12 (as shown in Fig 1 – right) – 24 ss, then use a ss to return to the top of the stitches from round 12.
14. Now working through the tops of the stitches in round 12 – [7 sc, 2 sc in next st] 3 times (27 stitches)
15. 27 sc all round
Turn the work “inside out” so that you have a cup with the right side on the inside. Continue stitching in the same direction i.e. working now from the inside of the cup as you work the rim. Now:
16. [2 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] 9 times (36 stitches)
17. 36 sc all round
18. [4 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 st] 6 times (30 stitches)
19. 30 sc all round
Turn the last few rows over (to make the rim of the cup) so that the row you are about to work, round 20, lines up with the backs of the slip stitches you made back in round 13. Now (in round 20) every 2-3 stitches, when you insert hook through top of the round 19 stitches, pick up one loop from the back of the slip stitches. This will secure the rim in place, as shown in Fig 2, right.
20. [3 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 st] 6 times (24 stitches)
21. 24 sc all round
22. [10 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 stitches] twice (22 stitches)
23. 22 sc all round
24. [1 dec sc over next 2 st, 9 sc] twice (20 stitches)
25. 20 sc all round
26. [1 dec sc over next 2 st, 8 sc] twice (18 stitches)
27. 18 sc all round
From about this point, I reached the red yarn and began to crochet over the tail of the red yarn – this helps to secure the tail and allows a little red to show through on the outside. I picked up the starting tail of the red yarn when I got to it at about round 30.
28. [4 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 st] 3 times (15 stitches)
29. [3 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 st] 3 times (12 stitches)
30. [1 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 st] 4 times (8 stitches)
31. 8 sc all round
32. [2 sc, 1 dec sc over next 2 st] twice (6 stitches)
Continue rounds of 6 sc until stem is desired length – when purchased, the stem will be 21 mm but many women find their mooncup more comfortable if they trim off some or even all of the stem. Finish with a slip stitch then fasten off and weave in the end.